Trouble Shooting

How to fix waves after taking your weave off the loom

Fix Waves | The Weaving Loom

A little while back, I had this idea for a weave that was the largest one I had made at the time (15” x 26”). I finished the weave on my loom and it didn’t turn out looking the way I had envisioned, and actually I hated it. So I started unweaving parts here and there, and then wove in different colors and patterns until I got it to the point where I really like it. Over all this had taken me quite a few days to do, so imagine my dismay when I cut the weave from the loom and I saw that there were huge waves in the dark blue area. I really wasn’t sure how to proceed, was the weave ruined and I just had to forget it and move on? Of course I didn’t want to do that because of all the time I had put in and I had gotten it to the point where I really liked how it looked. So I decided to figure out how to save it.

Fix Waves | The Weaving Loom

Seriously, look how smooth it was on the loom!  So why did the waviness happen in the first place? Well if you look at my weave, that blue shape is created at drastic swooping angle, while the rest of the weave is more horizontal. By making this swooping shape my weft wasn’t able to push down as close together and that is why you can see a lot of the warp thread in the shape. So without enough support the weft threads were spreading apart causing the waves.

Fix Waves | The Weaving Loom

So step 1 was to give the weft threads some more support. To do this I turned my weave onto it’s front so that the back was facing me. I then took a really long piece of warp thread and began weaving it horizontally across my wavy area picking up warp threads here and there. You’ll notice that I couldn’t pick up the warp threads in straight lines due to the swoop shape, and the fix sure isn’t pretty, but it’s the back so that doesn’t much matter. Weaving this extra piece of warp thread through the back worked perfectly and gave the blue area a lot of support.

Fix Waves | The Weaving Loom

If I had realized this would be an issue before I cut the weave off the loom, I would have added this support while my weave was still on the loom and it probably would have looked a bit nicer. Lesson learned. With my support issue solved, my weave was still looking not as nice as I would have liked due to the stretching it did once cut from the loom, so step 2 was to iron my weave.

A fellow weaver had suggested that I block my weave, which is a practice often used in knitting and crochet, where you wet your finished piece then pin it down flat in the shape you want and let it dry. I do think this would have worked also, but I did not have a good setup to do this in. Also ironing worked really well for me and was quick. If you are going to iron your own work, make sure to note what fibers you have in your piece and then set your iron to the lowest tolerance. My weave was made up of cotton and wool, so I set my iron to wool as it has a lower heat tolerance then cotton.

Fix Waves | The Weaving Loom

I was so excited to see that these two steps worked for me and my weave looks great again, crisis averted!

Have you ever taken a weave off the loom and had it get all wavy? If so what did you end up doing? Have you had any other issues when weaving? I would love to hear about them and offer any help if possible.

Happy Weaving!

Kate

Beginner

What can I hang my wall hangings from?

Dowel Rod | The Weaving Loom

There are actually a lot of options for hanging your wall hangings. The option you choose is dependent on your preference and what you think will make you’re wall hanging look best. I’ll list out a few ideas for you below starting with the one I normally use which is wood.

Dowel Rod | The Weaving Loom

Wood

Personally I like to use wood because it is fairly cheap and easy to cut. One option for wood is to find good sturdy wooden sticks outside. Wooden sticks from trees add some extra organic uniqueness to your weaves and can give your design some added interest. Just be sure to inspect the sticks for potential rotting and insect holes before you decide to use them. Another wood option, is wooden dowel rods. Dowel rods can be found at many craft stores and sometimes at hardware stores. I also came across some square dowel rods that I thought added a lot of interest to my wall hangings. You can find dowel rods in many lengths and sizes.

If you need to cut a wooden stick or dowel rod, you can use a hand saw and blade, which can be purchased at many hardware stores.

Metal

Metal is also an excellent item to hang from. You can use these brass or aluminum metal tubes or even copper pipes from the hardware store. It usually saves money to purchase the uncut copper pipes and then cut them yourself using a pipe cutter.

Dowel Rod | The Weaving Loom

Acrylic & Plastic

Another option is to use clear acrylic or plastic dowels. These can also come in a lot of interesting colors, that you could coordinate with your wall hangings.

Miscellaneous

As I mentioned before, you can really use anything you want to hang your wall hangings from, as long as it is sturdy. Some items that are more out of the box would be chopsticks, wooden spoons, knitting needles. Look around you and try to find more options!

Do you have a material that you normally hang your wall hangings from? Is there a material you’ve been wanting to try? I’d love to hear from you.

Happy Weaving!

Kate

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, you’ll help support The Weaving Loom, and you’ll receive some amazing stuff, too. Whohoo!

Beginner Weaving Lessons

How to Add Pom Poms and Tassels to a Weave

Pom Pom & Tassel | The Weaving Loom

If you’ve been wanting to add pom poms or tassels to your weaves, but weren’t sure how to go about it, then this is the post for you!

Pom Pom & Tassel | The Weaving LoomTo begin, weave your base exactly how you want it to look finished minus the pom poms and/or tassels.  That means if you want rya knots or other woven patterns/colors, make them first.  For this example, I wove a simple square using the plain weave.

Pom Pom & Tassel | The Weaving Loom

 

Make your pom pom

step 1| Wind thread loosely around your hand (or any object that is the length you desire your pom pom to be) at least 100 times.  The more you wind the thread the thicker the pom pom will be.  I choose to add a second color to my pom, but only wound that color twice, because I wanted it to be just a small pop of color.  I recommend playing around with how you add colors and different threads to your pom pom, to find a version that you like.

step 2| Take the thread off your hand and tie a thread across the middle of your thread donut.  Make sure to tie the middle very tight, I tied on one side then wrapped the middle thread around to the other side and double knotted.  It is important to get a tight knot, otherwise your pom pom will come apart.  Also make sure that your middle tie thread has two long tails to mount your pom pom with.

step 3| Cut the loops on both sides of the tied middle.

step 4| Fluff your threads into a sphere and trim the edges so that you get a nice round shape.  NOTE: do not trim your two middle tie thread tails, you will need these later to put the pom on your weave.

Pom Pom & Tassel | The Weaving Loom

Make your tassel

step 1| Just like with the pom pom, wind thread loosely around your hand (or any object that is the length you desire your tassel to be) at least 10 times.  The more you wind the thread the thicker the tassel will be.

step 2| Take the thread off your hand and tie the thread you are going to wrap the tassel with towards the top, leaving a loop at the top of the tassel, that you will pass a hanging thread through.

step 3| Below I’ve illustrated how to make a hidden tassel knot.  After you have tied your wrap thread once, make a loop with one of the thread ends (shown in black below) and wrap the other thread end around the tassel and wrap loop (shown in teal below).  Once you have wrapped the “teal” end around pass the “teal” end through the “black” loop.  Then pull tight on both ends.  The “black loop will drop under the wrapping thread and you will end up with just two end threads sticking out of each side of the tassel wrap.

Pom Pom & Tassel | The Weaving Loomstep 4| Cut the end threads off right at their base, then cut the bottom loop.  Pass a hanging thread through the top loop and tie it.  You now have a tassel.

**And before you move on, check out this post by Lindsey at Hello Hydrangea on how to fill out your tassels and make them extra awesome (and don’t forget to check out her beautiful weaves too!)

Add your pom pom and tassel to your weave

Pom Pom & Tassel | The Weaving Loom

step 1| Take one of the end threads of your pom pom or tassel and, using your tapestry needle, pull the end thread through your weave where you want your pom pom or tassel to go.  Pull the other end thread through in the same row, two warp threads over.

step 2| Tie the threads together in a double knot.

step 3| To finish, weave the end threads in the back of your weave and trim.

Pom Pom & Tassel | The Weaving Loom

Add as many pom poms or tassels as you like!

Has anyone added poms or tassels to their weaves in a different way? I’d love to hear about it.

Also if you were looking to add fringe to your weave, check out my post on Rya Knots here!

Happy Weaving!

Kate

 

 

Uncategorized

Maker’s Movement | What the maker’s movement means to me

 

Maker's Movement | The Weaving Loom

There is a lot to say about the maker’s movement and I’m sure there are differing opinions on it, so I will just discuss what it means to me. If you haven’t heard of this before, then my best description of what the maker’s movement is the cultural move away from the industrial one-size-fits-all, to a smaller scale of one-of-a-kind handmade. I feel that we have entered a modern day renaissance of creativity where everyone can join in thanks to technologies that connect us across the world. No longer is the power only held by huge corporations to reach mass audiences. Just this thought alone ignites my brain with creative possibility.

Maker's Movement | The Weaving Loom

The maker’s movement allows for people to take a step away from just consuming products to more appreciating what we have. If you can just walk into a store and buy a vase, for which there are 30 more on the shelf, in the back storage room, at the same store a few miles away, online, etc, then this item loses value. You would not treasure that item, if it broke you could just replace it. However if you were to buy a vase that an individual took the time to make by hand, with all its imperfect details, this vase holds significance in your home. It is one-of-a-kind, even if the maker creates several similar vases; each one is slightly different as it was handmade.

Maker's Movement | The Weaving Loom

Don’t get me wrong, the creation of industry was a great step forward in our society that allowed for the mass production of many essentials, bringing up the supply of these essentials and lowering the cost from which many people greatly benefited from. I believe many items should be mass-produced and will continue to purchase mass produced items. The downside to industry is that some items are made with low quality, in order to make the most profit. Also, as in my vase example, having massed produced products makes the items less special.

Purchasing a handmade item and understanding that the maker of that item put time, care, and artistry into the item really makes it special. These items also tend to have more character, since they aren’t as often test marketed and made to appeal to the largest audience.

Maker's Movement | The Weaving Loom

In order to support the maker’s movement, I try to make a purchase from a small business that creates or carries handmade items when possible. I’ve accumulated a small collection of these special items so far, and it makes me happy to think about how someone put time and thought into these items.

Do you also like to purchase handmade items from small businesses? What do you think of the maker’s movement?

Happy Weaving!

Kate

Weave Experiments

Weave Experiments| My first weave

My First Weave | The Weaving Loom

My first weave was pretty basic. I wanted to make some abstract triangle shapes, which didn’t quite turn out the way I pictured them in my mind. I was picturing them much more sharp in their shape, but I found that I didn’t have enough experience in weaving to get sharp lines. In the end, I was pretty happy with the weave.

For my colors I wanted neutrals with a pop of lime color to add interest.

My First Weave | The Weaving Loom

The techniques I used were the plain weave, soumak weave, and rya knots. My background is where I put the plain weave. I then made my triangles in a soumak, because I wanted them to stand out compared to the background. I then did my rya knots in a staggered angle along with a straight row to add interest.

So if I were to critique my piece, I thought it’s not too bad for a beginner piece. There are definitely issues with weft tensions, which is what is causing the waves. The best way to avoid this, is to pull your weft through at an upward angle and then push it down with a tapestry beater, instead of pulling your weft through straight across, which puts tension into the weave.

My First Weave | The Weaving Loom

Another issue I had was that I was using my frame loom without any spacing markers (such as the washi tape). This caused my warp threads to move as I went and changed my tension in my weave. The washi tape actually holds my warp in place surprisingly well and when a warp thread occasionally moves, I notice and can fix it right away. If you are using a notched loom, you won’t have any issue with this, as the notches hold your warp in place.

One of the things that I did correctly from the beginning was using a strong cotton thread for my warp. You can warp your loom with any type of thread, but some like wool will stretch and others might not hold up to a lot of pulling. I’ve also heard of pieces falling apart after they are taken off the loom due to a warp that didn’t hold up the tension off the loom. I’ve never had this problem using strong cotton thread for my warp. I love using it and it allows me to really experiment with my weaves, creating shapes and forms with a lot of tension.

How did your first weave go? What issues did you run into?  What lessons did you learn?  I’d love to see your weaves. If you’re on Instagram please tag me, so I can see them.

Happy Weaving!

Kate

Trouble Shooting Weaving Techniques Weaving Tips

How to eliminate gaps when weaving

Closing Gaps | The Weaving Loom

If you are new to weaving you may find that when you put in a vertical shape for a few weft rows a gap is created.  For me this was so disappointing to find gaps after I had finished my weaving.  If you like the look of the gap then by all means leave it. However if you do not then I will go over two ways to correct these gaps.

Closing Gaps | The Weaving Loom

To eliminate a gap while weaving you should use the interlocking weft technique. This technique involves weaving your shape like normal.

Closing Gaps | The Weaving Loom

Then when you are weaving in the area next to the shape, make sure to pull your new weft through the loop in the row that aligns with the shape and continue weaving in the opposite direction. This technique allows the wefts to fill in the gap, and will be virtually invisible.

Closing Gaps | The Weaving Loom

If you finish a weave and realize that the gaps you left in are now showing more then you like, you can close them up by sewing the warps to each other. To do this, take a string and double knot it in the back of your weave around a warp thread next to the gap. Then pull the string through the back of two or more weave stitches on one side. Next, cross over the gap to the other side and pull the string through the back of two or more weave stitches on side two.

GapClose1

Continue this from side to side until the gap is closed, making sure to keep a firm pull while sewing the gap closed. Finally tie the string to the back of your weave around a warp thread and weave in the string tails.

Has anyone ever left the gaps on purpose?  As always there is more then one way to solve a problem, so if you have corrected gaps differently I’d love to hear about it.

If you are having an issue with your warp being overexposed, check out my post on how to fix that here.

Happy Weaving!

Kate

Beginner

Lap Weaving Looms for Beginners

Beginner Lap Looms | The Weaving Loom

 

If you’re interested in weaving on a lap loom, but aren’t interested in making one of your own (instructions here), here are some lap looms that I’d recommend to beginners.

A lot of the looms that I would recommend are handmade and sold by a small business. I feel it is important to support small businesses when possible. Keep in mind that as these are handmade, they maybe sold out at the time that you are browsing this post, so if you find that the loom you really like is sold out then reach out to the seller to see when it will be in stock again.

I have not used any of these looms, as of the writing of this post, but I will explain the benefits to each loom as I see them. Also these are just a few lap looms that are available, there are many more great products out there!  Most of these looms are a solid piece or held together with screws, which means they will not loosen with use.  Also the majority are sold by weavers who understand weaving and what is required from a loom.  Click the links to find size, price, and real picture details.

ONE – Loom by The Unusual Pear on Etsy

As this loom is one solid piece, you wouldn’t have to worry about it coming loose over time, which can be an issue with some lap looms.  The price is affordable and comes with a weaving needle.  Three different sizes are available, with a very portable mini option.

TWO – Loom by Board & Bread

This loom is gorgeous on it’s own!  This is a perfect portable loom. There is only one size option, but you can speak to the seller about a custom. This loom comes with a pick up stick and comb.

THREE – Loom by Meghan Shimek

This loom has so many bells and whistles! It has legs to stand the loom up on a table, or you can collapse them to weave on your lap. It also comes with a rotating heddle! This means that with a twist of the heddle, your warp threads will separate creating a shed for you to easily pass your weft thread through. Then just twist the heddle the other way to easily pass your weft through the opposite warps (Find my post on basic weaving terms here). That greatly speeds up your weaving. You could also choose to not use the heddle and weave on the frame without it.

FOUR – Loom by All Roads Market on Etsy

This loom comes with a shed stick, a shuttle, an instructional booklet, and a tote bag

FIVE – Loom by Maryanne Moodie on Etsy

This loom comes with an instructional booklet, a weaving needle, scissors, a bag, warp thread, and enough yarn to complete a project (along with your choice of color story)

Ok so some of these looms are on the pricier side, and sometimes when you’re starting out new, you’re not sure if you want to dedicate so much money in the beginning. I totally understand, because I felt the same way. As you know, I made myself a frame loom (DIY here). But I do have a second loom, that my parents bought me for Christmas when I had just started weaving. This is a little embarrassing because the loom they bought me was a child’s loom. But I greatly appreciated the thoughtfulness of the gift and gave it a try. And guess what, it actually works really well. I’ve made many weavings on this loom, and it’s very affordable.

Beginner Lap Looms | The Weaving Loom

This is a Melissa & Doug Loom. It comes with “feet”(not pictured) so it can stand upright on a table, and it also can be adjusted so that the lower bar comes up higher, allowing you to weave a smaller piece. I feel like this is a good loom to work on if you want to give weaving a try. Then if you find you like weaving you can make a greater investment in a really nice loom.

And once you pick out the loom you like, make sure to check out my posts on how to set up your loom for weaving, and different weaving techniques to create your pieces.

Happy Weaving!

Kate

**Please note, this post is not sponsored and the only link that is an affiliate link is the Melissa & Doug Loom. An affiliate link means that if you click on the link and then make a purchase I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. These commissions are what helps keep this blog running for users like you, thanks!

Weaving Techniques Weaving Tips

Weaving Tips || Rya Knots

Rya Knot Tip| The Weaving Loom

If you’re working on a lot of rya knots, it can be pretty time consuming to cut all those strands. In order to save time I recommend getting a piece of cardboard that is the length you want your strands to be. Make sure to add just a little bit more length, as the top of the knot will use up some of your strand.

Rya Knot Tip| The Weaving Loom

Here are the time saving steps:

Step 1 – take your piece of cardboard and your ball of yarn. Place the yarn end over the front of your cardboard, this will be the cut end.

 

Step 2 – Loosely wind your yarn around the cardboard piece as many times as you need strands, keeping in mind that every time you come around the front of the cardboard would count as one strand. Also make sure your yarn is wound loosely like I said, because you will need to get your scissors between the yarn and the cardboard. Also if you wind the yarn too tightly then your yarn may stretch in the process and shrink to shorter then you wanted after cut.

Rya Knot Tip| The Weaving LoomStep 3 – End your ball of yarn on the same side as your strand start. Put your scissors at this bottom and cut all the wrapped yarn pieces, also cutting your ball of yarn off.

Rya Knot Tip| The Weaving Loom

You will now have a pile of strands that are more or less the same length and you can get started tying your rya knots.

Have you tried this before? What did you think? I’d love to hear from you!

Happy Weaving!

Kate

Weaving Techniques

Weaving Techniques || Rya Knots

Rya Knot| The Weaving Loom

Rya Knots are what you most often find at the bottom of a weave to create a fringe. However, the rya knot can be placed where ever to create a more unique and interesting composition. These knots are also used when making a shaggy carpet texture, because the knot holds the thread ends in place.

I personally weave from the top down, so I will put my rya knots in upside down. However, there are a lot of weavers I know that work bottom up. I recommend that you always put a few plain weave rows in to give your rya knots stability. For this example I’m starting from the bottom up.

I wove three rows of plain weave as a support. Next I added my rya knots. In my example I used four strands of worsted weight thread to make a medium thickness (learn more about yarn weight here). To create the rya knot you will need to use at least two warp threads for each knot.

I used four warp (two on each side) threads since I’m making a more medium knot. The number of warp threads you go across will effect the width of your rya knot. If you are making a wider rya knot you will need a thicker thread weight or more numbers of strands, otherwise it can make your rya knot look limp.

RyaKnot1

Here are the steps to creating the rya knots:

Step 1 – I placed my four strands of yarn over my warp threads.

Step 2 – bring the right side of your yarn behind and around your warp threads (I’m going around two warps in my example. Next bring the left side of your yarn behind and around your other warp threads so that the ends meet up in the middle.

Rya Knot| The Weaving Loom

Step 3 – Since we are starting with the rya knots (bottom up weaving) we pull the end pieces below the top knot area. If you were ending with the rya knots (top down weaving) you would pull the end pieces above the top knot area.

Quick Tip: before I pull my ends down and tighten the top knot, I match up both sides of the end pieces and then pull evenly, so that my knot ties with all ends at about the same length. Trimming is usually required for a more uniform fringe, but this helps not waste as much thread.

After you added your row of rya knots, I recommend weaving at least two rows of plain weave to stabilize the knots. You can then create the rest of your piece as you like. It is also possible to add another row of rya knots above.

As always I recommend that when you’re starting out be open to experimenting until you find the amount of thread and size of rya knots you like. This can also change depending on the look of the piece you are working on.

Check out my time-saving tip on cutting strands for rya knots here.

In one of my earlier weavings I skipped the step of adding support rows under my rya knots and had to do a crazy tying of warp threads together (see picture below) in order to gain stability in my weave after cutting it off the loom. Trust me you do not want to do this, lessons were learned!

Rya Knot| The Weaving LoomDo you like how rya knots look in weaves? Have you tried making them before? I’d love to hear from you!

Happy Weaving!

Kate

Beginner

What size yarn should I use when weaving?

Yarn Weight| The Weaving Loom

The obvious answer to this question is whatever size you want. Truly you can use whatever yarn thickness you desire and also incorporate non-yarn items. However, when you are new to weaving picking out yarns for your weave can be daunting so I’m going to share my best recommendations.

To start, let’s talk about yarn sizing or weight. A yarn’s weight describes how thick or thin the strand is spun. Some yarns will be described by their weight name, some by their weight number, some by both, and some neither. Here is the order of yarn weights from thinnest to thickest:

0 – Lace weight

1 – Fingering weight

2 – Sport

3 – DK (double knit)

4 – Worsted

5 – Bulky

6 – Super Bulky

Yarn Weight| The Weaving Loom

The bulky sized yarns will make your weaving quicker, however they will also show your warp thread. If you want a tighter weave that doesn’t show the warp then I recommend using a DK or worsted weight yarn.

Yarn Weight| The Weaving Loom

Combining yarns is also a great way to add texture and interest to your weave. You could weave some lace weight shapes into your weave, then weave in worsted weight and add some bulky to give your weave some depth and interest. You could also grab more then one thread of yarn and pull them through your weave as if they were one. You might combine 6 threads of lace weight and weave them in as one thread, or combine a worsted weight and a bulky weight to weave in as one. I some times combine multiple strands of worsted weight to make it into a bulky weight strand.  In the picture above, I’m using the same cream yarn for the whole weave. I vary between just one strand of yarn and four strands of yarn used together. In the picture below, I combined a grey super bulky yarn with a matching grey worsted weight yarn to give a little more detail and texture.

Yarn Weight| The Weaving Loom

My best recommendation is experiment in order to find out what you like. Make a bunch of mini weaves, or just jump into a large weave.

My go to weight of yarn is a DK or this worsted weight. What is your preferred yarn weight? Have you tried combining yarn weights for texture? As always, I’d love to hear from you.

If you’re interested in knowing which yarn to warp your loom with, find out in this post here.

Happy Weaving!

Kate

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, you’ll help support The Weaving Loom, and you’ll receive some amazing stuff, too. Whohoo!